><> ><>                                            ><> ><>
><> ><>         BASS MATTERS - September 28, 2002        ><> ><>
  ><> ><>          by Bass Master Brock              ><> ><>
><> ><>                                            ><> ><>
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        * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
        
Greetings Fisherman!

It's the weekend and I am 'stoked'.  This week has seemed to last
forever!  I'm going to keep this short so I can enjoy my time away
from work. 

See you on the water -
Brock
brock@gophercentral.com
        
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Crankbait Fishing
by Charles Stuart

If you have tried to use a crankbait for catching bass and 
had little or no success, read on. This might convince you 
to give it a try.

Let's focus on the largest member of the sunfish family, the 
bass. During certain times of the day bass like to move into 
deeper water. There are many reasons why this "transition" 
from shallow to deep water occurs, one of which is to get 
away from the fishermen who pound the shoreline with a variety 
of lures that they get to see week in and week out. When you 
cannot find the fish you are looking for from the shoreline, 
start looking for deep-water structure.

The structure could include, large rocks, areas of sunken 
forest, abandoned cars or building ruins that were flooded 
by the Corp of Engineers when constructing a new watershed 
or reservoir. Often this information can be obtained from 
survey maps of a lake or reservoir prior to impounding.

Once you have established the depth you want to fish, select 
your crankbait according to its capabilities. Most of you will 
know that the larger the plastic "bill" on the nose of the bait, 
the deeper it will dive. I like to paint the number of feet a 
lure will dive on the belly of the lure. This helps when it 
comes to selection time. If I am fishing in 20 feet of water I 
like to start with any two brightly colored crankbaits I have 
at hand. The reason for brightness as opposed to color 
selection is that I am looking for a lure that will reflect 
even a little light in the darkness of deep water.

The first crankbait will run at between 15- and 18-feet. With 
this lure I will determine if the fish are looking upward and 
are in a feeding pattern off the bottom of the water. If the 
first choice fails the second lure of choice would be a crank-
bait that can dive deeper that the depth I am fishing. This is 
because I want to present frantic baitfish bumping into 
structure. This lure will make small thumping sounds as it hits 
solid objects, or if it strikes the lake bottom the lure will 
cause clouds of silt, gravel or sand to billow up in the water. 
The noise and vibration will attract fish and provoke a strike. 
If I cannot get to the fish because they are in 30 or 40 feet 
of water, I attach a crankbait to a one-ounce Carolina rig, 
exchanging the worm hook for the crankbait.

In a shallow situation, crankbait color choice becomes vital, 
as the lure can be seen more clearly. Try to match the size 
and color of the baitfish to the size of your lure. As with any 
crankbait lure presentation, always start moving the lure 
quickly. If no strikes come, change your retrieve to a stop and 
go or slow it down to a crawl. Once the fish "tell you" how they 
want the bait, you will have found the pattern to fish and will 
catch more of them as a result.
 
 

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Questions...Comments...email us at: mailto:brock@gophercentral.com
<a href="mailto:brock@gophercentral.com">Email brock</a>
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